Hey Folks,
I just set up one of these bad boys and I’m blown away…
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1621997-REG/lg_32ep950_b_32_oled_uhd_dci_p3.html
Rumor is that the factory making the panels has been sold and is retooling for other projects. Very good at full list, at current 50% discount, it will not be beat for some time.
@dlevine is getting one calibrated as I type. Looking forward to seeing his when done.
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Oh yes. We had this discussion on Discord and @finnjaeger suggested it. We found it around the same price as you did in Europe and ordered right away.
On a side note remember that you can adjust the UI scale of Flame depending on the size of your monitor. 120% fits me great on this one.
Out of interest, are you just using it for a GUI?
its the same as the asus etc, yea i heard JOLED(the company) is pretty much dead but they have added support for colourspace - I also have this monitor as my main reference monitor.
I wouldnt run a GUI on it. its a OLED… itll burn in the flame gui in no time.
Also it has HEAVY metameristic failure , meaning you have to perceptually match it to a lcd for whitepoint its not the easiest to get right with calibration.
If you calibrate the whitepoint even with a spectro to d65 it will look very green.
its very flimsy and has no “professional” vibe. otherwise its very good. Its a great monitor, just a bit special.
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We took a look at these ASUS OLED monitors as a reference monitor. We ended up getting 42” LG OLEDs instead. Way better specs and picture for a lot less money.
I wouldn’t be keen on an OLED for a GUI either, but thought I’d ask the question as you wouldn’t want to use the LG as a GUI. Good cheap UHD HDR reference monitor though (as long as you can live with the 700 nit MaxCLL)
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Yes Flame GUI
The pixel shifting minimizes burn in.
Have a pair of these and honestly work well. Have not tried any HDR stuff but I am fucking happy about the price
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or this…if u need 1000nit. Also with big price drop😊
I wouldnt do this one… miniled is just not that great, the LG has much higher peak luminance and contrast in real
world scenes compared to the dell, i compared them
side by side with a hx310.
interesting ! - i have found quiet the opposite the RGB OLEDs measure better in any test ive done compared to the WRGB oleds, especially in stability over time but ive gotta say our sony QD-Oled blows all of them out of the water!
also you can load luts onto the asus/lg 32" which is pretty dope!
We’ve got both X300 & X310s and we can calibrate the LGs so that the visual translation, bar levels above 700nits, is pretty close. Unless you are sitting the monitors side by side you can’t tell. The LGs have some strayation in the blacks but they’re good considering they are a small fraction of the cost of a BVM or PVM HDR monitor.
Looked at the LG GUI monitor as well. Not sure if it was just the one we looked at but the uniformity was terrible on the one we tried. Once again, the LG OLED TVs were better for this, even though they definitely aren’t perfect. I think larger panels for OLED are simply better for this. However the “Organic” aspect of OLED means that each monitor will be unique on how good its strayation and uniformity will be.
I personally am anti LUTs for calibration. If the monitor drifts only a little bit, the LUT will amplify the drift and could introduce other issues. Controversial I know in this day and age, but I can honestly say that through experience, I haven’t seen any real benefit for using the LUT, but I have seen plenty of issues from using one (LUT falls off or exasperates any issues). Or when a SDI to HDMI unit holding a LUT dies and you madly have to find and load the correct LUT onto a new one when attaching it. There is also the issue that LUTs are destructive to a signal but in this case, it would need to be working hard before it did that. I also have a bit of a fundamental issue with the concept that you are trying to monitor a specific output signal, but you are placing something in the signal path in a LUT that is going to alter that signal. It really is unnecessary.
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on topic of luts, i totally het where you are comming from, but there is one thing.
Monitors have native gammas and colorspaces and when you select something else than native in the displays menu all you are doing is loading a set of luts or 1D LUT/colormatrix on that monitor. so if you can access those internal luts and replace them with better ones - thats really where its at, something like flanders has this option for example, totally agree on the mess that is external LUTs and processing and signal issues and added delay and all that jazz though.
I dont really get the “amplifies drift”
part, that only seems to in my mind apply when you add a correction lut on top of a allready almost reference display, like on the sony QD oled youd set the gamut to rec2020(native) and the gamma to 2.2 (native) to bypass all internal processing and then use a lutbox to take over all the color conversions from the TV, this does work rather well.
I understand the issues with uniformity, ive seen this, i got pretty lucky with mine, its definetely panel lottery with the RGB oleds, same with consumer TVs though.
Man really try the Sony A95K/A95L when you have a chance … its amazing and even has a mode for native clipping in HDR, goes up to 2000NIT peak now and they are cery affordable. Flanders has that same panel i their new hdr mastering monitor… next level uniformity, graphics mode skips all processing - I am so in love with that thing, my client TV defienetely beats my reference monitor.
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I can see where you are coming from, but I am not sure about external LUTs necessarily being better. I think a simple gamma and colourspace transform built into the monitors is all it should be doing. It’s when you start introducing 33 point or greater LUTs to try and ‘fix’ imperfections in the physical transformation of numbers into light, which is why people are introducing LUTs into calibration. This is more what I was referring to, calibration LUTs, rather than LUTs dealing with colourspace transformation.
The drift thing I can try to explain simply. A calibration LUT is fundamentally an inverse of what is being measured as imperfections in the displays data>light output. So let’s simplify this and say point A of the LUT is dropping the values to counter a lift in the light reading for a certain point, but point B of the LUT is then lifting to counteract a drop of the light reading. If the display drifts towards point B from point A where the LUT has dropped the values and then the display starts further dropping them then that drop is then amplified. It is obviously a lot more complicated than this but the theory behind what I am saying is sound.
What is drift? It isn’t the numbers in the signal path changing, it is the way the panel displays light changing over time through use and wear and tear on the parts which causes them to perform differently over time. If you try to fine tune the signal path to counteract this you need to do it regularly as these changes don’t happen uniformly. But if you take a more wholistic approach to calibration and forgive the minor imperfections (which is why there is tolerance built into calibration specs) then you are less likely to further complicate or potentially even introduce issues. So if you set your black and what points then check your RGB values and they are all sitting within spec, which you can achieve without a calibration LUT, then this is the approach I prefer.
We also need to remember that you can’t measure the translation of light into electrical pulses that your brain perceives as colour. Unless the panels are sitting side by side, or both are in the same view, the brain would more than compensate for the minor imperfections on the panels if they are both within spec.
Sorry, I have tried to keep this as simple as I can but it is not a simple subject. I think that all makes sense though.
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Also remember that the majority of controls in the display itself that you are adjusting when calibrating are controlling the panel itself, and the electrical components within it, not the signal.
I got one of these for use as a reference monitor but I’ve been using it as my main Flame GUI monitor for a few months now with no burn-in issues.
I love it
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This is really interesting for me because I could use it as a UHD HDR broadcast monitor, but switch it to a GUI when I need to spin up an extra Flame running from my MacBook Pro.
What piece of kit would you need hook this up to Flame as a UHD HDR monitor?
decklink/ultrastudio/aja, just anythig with a clean hdmi out really.
you can also use flame with a HDR gui on this which is doope.
I still dont believe in no-burnin, its a oled, its going to burn in with the same gui on it every day, pixelshift etc are helping to prolong this but that just comes with the territory.
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